In 1997 Charles Back bought a farm called Klein Amoskuil near Malmesbury in the Swartland region north-west of Paarl, then rather better known for its wheat than its wine.

In just two years he transformed the place. Under performing vines were grubbed up, though select blocks of 40-year-old Chenin and Pinotage, which promised – and subsequently delivered – distinctive wines, were retained. Warm-climate reds, many new to the Cape and historically at home in the Rhône, South of France and Italy, were established, all in all: some 140 hectares.

Back bucked viticultural trends of the time, adopting practices dictated by the immediate environment: dryland (un-irrigated) bushvines, with just four to five fruiting spurs per vine. He chose to be satisfied with the resultant low production levels of around three to four tons per hectare.

Hot, dry summers are balanced by deep, moisture-retentive soils which remain cool. And night temperatures are also surprisingly temperate, effectively slowing the ripening process – especially important for the late-ripening varieties – to close the gap between high sugars and phenolic ripeness.

In 2005 Spice Route Winery acquired vineyards in the cool hills outside the town on Darling near the Cape’s west coast. Sauvignon Blanc has found its home in these hills, with their deep red oakleaf soils. In addition, the Spice Route team has Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Shiraz vines here as well.

The Vineyards. At Malmesbury, red varietals such as Syrah, Pinotage, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Carignan and Grenache have been selected. White wine varieties Viognier and Chenin Blanc are also planted, producing exceptional, richly flavoured wines. The Malmesbury vineyards are all dry land farmed and are predominantly untrellised bushvines, (only our Pinotage vineyards on the Rheeboksfontein site are trellised). The soils at these vineyards are a combination of Malmesbury shale the descriptively named Koffieklip (coffee stone) soils. Red clay subsoils retain the moisture required for dryland (unirrigated) farming.

Darling is increasingly regarded as a prime Sauvignon Blanc growing area in the Western Cape. Spice Route’s vineyards on the rolling hills are less than 8km from the Atlantic Ocean and its cooling breezes. The deep red Oakleaf soils here are perfectly suited to producing Sauvignon Blanc grapes of intense flavour and intriguing minerality. These vines are trellised and with strong vigour require constant attention to ensure that yields are carefully managed. In addition to 60 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc, Charles Back and Charl du Plessis have bushvine Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Shiraz vines comprising the remainder of the 100 hectares of vineyard

The Cellar handles some 1000 tons of fruit each vintage, it is equipped predominantly with 12- and 18-ton stainless steel fermentation tanks, as well as five-ton open concrete and French oak fermenters. Maturation is in 225l barrels, primarily French but also some American oak. Between 40 and 60 per cent of the 1 000-odd barriques are renewed each year, depending on the requirements of the vintage, style of wine and quality of fruit.

The flagship of the winery, Malabar, is produced in a separate, dedicated cellar. Here fruit is hand sorted over sorting tables, and only the finest berries are selected. These grape varieties are fermented and matured individually, and only the top quality is retained within the Malabar cellar. The wines are handcrafted and receive carefully considered oaking. Winemaker Charl du Plessis, along with a team of tasters, taste the wines regularly and when the quality is of an acceptable level a blend is developed. Malabar is produced with no regard to quantity, and volumes are governed by the quality of the blend’s constituents. The final blend is returned to barrels to mature and knit together, until it is considered worthy of its title and leaves the Malabar cellar.

The post Spice Route appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

Top scores for our Mourvèdre 2009

Wine Spectator's James Molesworth tasted and rated the Spice Route Mourvèdre 2009 exclusively for the Bi-weekly Wine Spectator Insider publication – wine rating 90 points.
"The Spice Route Mourvèdre 2009 features a sappy kirsch and cherry paste feel, with singed juniper and sandalwood notes complemented by solid, fine-grained grip on the finish," says James Molesworth

HARVEST REPORT 

"As winter slowly creeps in and the exhilaration of harvest is nothing more than a distant memory, the really fun part starts – we get to taste the wines and monitor their progress.

In my experience, these vineyards were exposed to more favourable weather conditions in comparison to last year. As a result, I can already see that this is a very promising vintage.

Although the harvest began ten days later than usual, we managed to finish at more or less the same time as in the past. The late start definitely added more pressure to what is already the busiest time of the year for us, and at one point all the grapes started to ripen at the same time and had to be picked straightaway.

The 2012 winter rainfall was pleasantly consistent, offering ideal intervals, which allowed the grapes to develop at an optimal level. For us, a consistently good rainfall is crucial for our 'dryland' vineyards, allowing a steady yet stagnant supply of water during the growing season, up until harvest.

Apart from a few fairly hot days, with temperatures varying between 25-35 degrees in December and January, we are pleased with the relatively cool summer season we experienced. These weather conditions encourage healthy grape vines and allows for optimal ripeness in the berries.

I rate this vintage right-up there with the best; one can already see the quality on the white wines. At this very early stage the whites are already showing more tropical flavour with good complexity on the palate. It is still too early to make any predictions on the red wines, but what I can say is that I am very happy so far with what I'm seeing in the cellar.

Overall we had an excellent harvest this year and I am very happy with the results. The first wines of the 2013 vintage will be the Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Chenin Blanc, which should be bottled in June or July."

Warm regards from the Swartland
Winemaker,
Charl du Plessis

The post 2013 Harvest Report and Accolades for Spice Route appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

Founded in 1682 and nestled in the valley of the Simonsberg in South Africa’s premium wine region, Stellenbosch. Rustenberg’s rich heritage and ethos has been informed by many centuries of human influence striving to understand and work with nature to produce wines of distinct character true to their terrior, variety and informed style.

In 1941 Peter and Pamela Barlow bought Rustenberg, later acquiring Schoongezicht and reuniting the properties. Peter lovingly restored many of the old buildings on the property and developed the farming capacity of the estate by building dams ad renovating the winery.

Their son Simon took over the running of the farm in 1987, having run Nooitgedacht, a property on the foothills of the Helderberg Mountain in Stellenbosch for a number of years. Simon reinvigourated the property as South Africa emerged from post-Apartheid isolation. He built a new winery and imported modern virus free clones and grape varieties to replant the estate’s vineyards. Simon is actively involved in the everyday running of the farm and along with his wife Rozanne, who is responsible for the grounds and gardens, ensures a personal touch to the running of this family owned business.

Simon and Rozanne’s son, Murray, farms full time with his parents, having returned from completing his Masters in Oenology from The University of Adelaide in Australia. Murray has brought a renewed passion and modern outlook to the operations of the business and is primarily involved in the winemaking and marketing on the property.

The Barlows have been at Rustenberg for over 70 years: the longest period any one family has owned the farm.

The post Rustenberg appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

South Africa – Cape Days Out

Part 4 – Pinot Queen

Cathy Marshall is first and foremost a lover of wine.  Pinot Noir is her baby and it is the varietal for which she is most renowned.  As with Adi Badenhorst before her, on arriving at her home at Morningstar Farm in Elgin one felt immediately whisked away to rural Southern France, perhaps to Vacqueras or Gigondas, such was the Mediterranean feel of the place.  Cathy too has a very gentle, peaceful, pragmatic and bohemian approach to life and to winemaking.  She is planning a visit to Tibet as we speak which speaks volumes for her as a person.  She loves nature and if her wines are anything to go by, nature loves her too.  Flowers, bees, a frightening 2 inch long parasitic wasp which had built a nest on the steps to her garden, four different varieties of frog and a beautiful view across the vineyards were all on her literal doorstep.  Relaxed and approachable, Cathy has become her environment.  She is as much a part of Elgin terroir as the 14 different soil types the region is renowned for.  As we settled to taste on her sun drenched stoep, I knew that there would be a whole lot of soul poured into our glasses.

Cathy makes a Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, White Label Pinot Noir a higher level Black label Pinot Noir and a dessert red wine called Myriad.  Her 2012 Sauvignon Blanc alone consists of 3 clones of the varietal to ensure she creates what she feels is a true Elgin style.  This is not Marlborough Sauvignon, it is more passion fruit and white petal on the nose and less cut grass and gooseberry.  It is clearly more rounded and dare I say, more complete…  Where Sauvignon Blanc can often be lacking, Cathy’s has midpalate weight and mouth feel together with the variety’s tell-tale crispness and bite.  Truly a style that embraces the taster and begs for another sip.  Oh, and Cathy recommends this be opened with a plate of Thai Green Chilli.  Yum!  The 2012 Chenin Blanc represents to me what is right about SA’s appreciation of the variety.  So often in the country’s past we have witnessed limp, weedy and off dry styles of Chenin or uber taut and uninteresting, eye wateringly under-ripe failures….  Pleasingly Cathy has substituted these unacceptable flaws with waxy, ripe and concentrated flavours.  Linear, intense and deep there are flavours of yellow plum and crushed minerals.  For the first time in my visit so far I also noted a tension in the glass, what some tasters refer to as “nervous” character.  It is an exceptional trait to have and is often a defining character of the greatest wines made.  It isn’t something you can pour from a jar during the winemaking process, it is purely and squarely down to Cathy’s judgment and the quality of grapes she has grown.  Electric.  Bravo!

Cathy’s reds came next.  Of the dry cuvees we tasted two Pinot Noirs and a Merlot.  The 2011 White Label Pinot Noir, grown on sandstone was produced from a great vintage.  Cathy says this cuvee is all about seduction and aromatic profile.  It offered star-bright red cherry and cranberry fruit with a pretty, feminine and perfumed nose.  Without the depth of complexity, yes, but this was very Chambolle-Musigny in compoisition.  Pound for pound this is an absolute steal at under £15 a bottle.  The reserve Black Label Pinot Noir, also from 2011 was given eleven months in second fill oak barrels and was just a touch bolder and deeper in the glass with more purple fruit notes.  Dusky and more masculine it retained all of the perfumed elegance of the White Label which preceded it yet was evidently more plush and silky on the palate.  Balanced and integrated, it was a more serious and complete expression of Pinot Noir yet on the shelf will only set the buyer back a mere £16.50…  Everyone should buy this wine!  The last dry red was a cuvee called Amatra and is made from 100% Merlot.  Utilising 5^th and 6^th year barrels it offered a lifted nose of perfumed, spiced plum and purple berry fruit.  With ripe, integrated tannins and dense, juicy, forward fruit it had great freshness and an attractive finish.  Merlot tends to be a little hit or miss but pleasingly in Cathy’s case, it has proven to be a hit!  Finally, once I had picked myself back up off the ground (fortunately missing the afore mentioned Parasite Wasp on my way down) we tasted Cathy’s 2008 Myriad sweet red which is made from Merlot and Pinot Noir.  In addition to a wonderful quiche and salad lunch, Cathy had prepared some brie and also blue veined cheese for dessert.  What a match!  The Myriad’s rich but “winey” character worked as a bridge between Port and a dense red wine.  It was light, too, which made it very accessible.  The marriage between blue veined cheese and Myriad happened before my very eyes.  Such a brief relationship, I felt like the witness at a Las Vegas wedding!  What a tasting and what and experience. 

At the end of lunch it was clear that where Cluver wines is a sizable operation, Cathy is far more bijou.  To a degree they are chalk and cheese if only for the commercial aspect of their respective operations.  With Cathy she will make what she feels is right, or create a one-off cuvee if she felt the opportunity existed.  Utterly wine facing, one gets the impression that the commercial aspect which exists at the very end of each vintage is the part which interests her least.  Making wine is Cathy’s passion and the need to sell it exists more as an obstacle than anything else.  Fortunately in the UK at least, Cathy can count on a fully committed team at Seckford Agencies who are doing everything we can to promote her stunning wines!  Thank you Cathy, our visit was an absolute pleasure.  Please keep up the amazing work!

The post appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

South Africa – Cape Days Out

Part 3 – Apples ‘N Pinots

Cooler climate regions by nature tend to benefit grape varieties which extenuate crispness and aromatic complexity, such as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.  Borderline areas where the success of a vintage rests permanently on a climatic knife edge tend to produce some of the most sublime and balanced wines available.  Champagne and Burgundy amongst others remind us that the potential for greatness is very possible but that a thorough grasp of viticulture, vinification and a complete dedication to understanding your terrior not only proves invaluable, but essential for any degree of success.  Mother Nature has a huge part to play but the rewards for hard work are more evident in these borderline areas.  Elgin is just such a place and Seckford Agencies are lucky to represent several growers from this esteemed region of The Cape.

Following a mammoth drive which took us up Sir Lowry’s Pass near Somerset West with its truly stunning views over Somerset West, the air thinned and the team started to discuss how in heaven’s name people ever managed to trade along these routes by just pony and cart?!  Dedication to the cause we unanimously decided.  Our first visit was to Paul Cluver Wines who seem to have continued the ethos of this great tradition.  On exiting the car the temperature was considerably cooler than at HQ.  The Cluver’s business empire was founded on the apple and pear business and is still a huge producer of fruit, indeed, the Appletizer factory is just down the road!

Winemaker Andries Burger (all 19 foot 8 of him!) introduced us to the Cluver portfolio, which concentrated predominantly on white wines.  Riesling played a large part in the range, which seems a rare thing in South Africa.  Additionally Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay are grown.  The Rieslings were excellent, my favourite being the “Close Encounter”, which had a sweet lemon and lime nose with a round, rich and deliciously fresh palate.  My note ended with my writing “Yummy!”.  Can’t be bad….  Though I hate to say it when so many other varieties exist, Andries’ 2011 Chardonnay was also stunning, leaning far more towards a well-proportioned White Burgundy than anything we’d enjoyed up until this point.  If controlled, judiciously oaked white with zesty fresh citrus fruit and outstanding weight on the palate is your bag then you need to buy this wine!  I should mention the gloriously refreshing 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, too, full of nettles and fresh cut herbs, greengage, it was truly alive on the nose.  On the palate there was zingy citrus, guava and passion fruit.  It had a fine salinity which added even more interest to this eminently drinkable white.  Finally we moved on to the reds and the Pinot Noir cuvees for which Cluver is renowned.  My appreciation for Cluver Wines was already in no doubt as the reds were poured…  The Estate Pinot Noir had a real hint of Gevrey-Chambertin about it, offering Smokey, rose tinged aromatics and a gorgeously vibrant mid palate.  It offered accessible Pinot character for what seems like peanuts compared to many of its Old World counterparts….  In fact laughably so….  The star wine was by far the 2010 Seven Flags Pinot Noir.  Gunsmoke and pan grille on the nose led into a feminine, restrained and delicate palate of ripe raspberry and mint tinged fruit.  Deep yet accessible it was well focused and pure with great minerality.  Ok, so it isn’t cheap at £35 a bottle, however, this is first rate Pinot in any context and will happily challenge Burgundy at a much higher price.  Having been brought up on wines from classic regions, I really did feel that I was onto something here which nobody else had considered, that tasters had inadvertently overlooked on repeat occasions…  If price is anything to go by, bargains really are still attainable from Elgin.  Indeed, our very next visit to Catherine Marshall Wines just helped to act as a huge rubber stamp!

The post appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

South Africa

Part 2 -  The Spice is Right

Having created a base in the fabulous surroundings of Rust En Vrede’s Manor House, Stellenbosch, the Seckford team were ready to move on and continue tasting around the Cape.  The next visit was quite something in its scale.  Spice Route wines, owned by the legendary Charles Back, has taken the role of humble wine producer to another level by opening a “destination” to showcase a range of culinary and craft outlets within its Paarl HQ.  Rather than a portfolio tasting with nibbles, we were treated to a full on tour of the South African wine trade’s first theme park!  Glass blowing, a Grappa distillery, Biltong Emporium, Beer Brewery, Chocolate Factory a restaurant…..  Oh, and a Wine Cellar for tastings! 

Forgetting the diversions which were outstanding in their artisan approach and application, the wine of Spice Route were showing extremely well.  Charl du Plessis, wine maker and cycling fanatic talked us through the estate.  Named because of the Western Cape’s history of foreign trade, Spice Route offers the wines of Swartland in a delightfully well-crafted package.  Offering 2012 Viognier as a pure varietal we were impressed by the lush white peach nose and piercing apricot flavours on show.  It is a variety which can fall flat on its face in the wrong hands but thankfully Charl has picked at exactly the right moment to ensure acidity, freshness and vibrancy remains.  Easily the finest Viognier I have tasted from SA and a variety which, incidentally, was first brought into the country by proprietor Charles Back many moons ago.  Charls commented that it would be perfect match for Thai Fish Curry or something called a 4×4 Sushi Roll (though lost in translation to an extent, this appears to refer to a huge pile of standard sushi sewn up in a monster sized wrap which is proving quite trendy in Cape Town!).  Ultimately the Viognier’s zing and juicy fruit means it can be enjoyed without food.

Of the reds the two cuvees which really caught the imagination were the 2009 Mouvedre and 2010 Chakalaka Blend.  The Mouvedre was inky, velvety, smokey and ripe.  Its dusky fruit and elegant accessibility were a delight.  The overall richness was superb.  The 2010 Chakalaka is a blend of six varietals (Syrah, Mourvedre, Petit Syrah, Grenache and Tannat) which takes its name from the Zulu meaning “all in one”.  It is also the name gifted to a blend of South African spices, chilli and vegetables which is often used as a rub for meat or for seasoning.  I deviate!  Spice Route’s Chakalaka is without question one of Seckford’s most popular wines.  It is easy to see why with its great packaging, catchy name and, well, great flavours!  At the top of the red wine tree comes the flagship wine of the range, the 2007 Malabar blend.  Composed of six varietals (Syrah, Mourvedre, Petite Syrah, Grenache and Tannat) it sees 16 months in oak, and is only produced in the finest vintages.  Deep in the glass, offering smokey, delicate focused notes of orange zest, spice and brambles it was taught, concentrated and deep flavoured with a wonderful dry jam quality.  A lovely wine indeed, though for this quality one must pay a price….  About £28 a bottle, so not cheap, but ultimately a very enjoyable glass of wine! 

Visiting Spice Route was a joy and as we were leaving the estate we were treated to an amazing sunset with views over the iconic Table Mountain.  A lasting memory and with a million reasons to make a second visit as soon as humanly possible, I have my fingers firmly crossed that when I finally do I will be able to ride a wine themed roller-coaster of some description…..  Or perhaps play vineyard dodgems…..  Whatever that may be!

The post appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

South Africa – Cape Days Out

Part 1 – Bordeaux and Badenhorst

Traditionally speaking, April is a month when the UK wine trade ups sticks and relocates to Bordeaux to taste the preceding vintage’s fayre.  Year after year, wine after wine the UGC bun fight plays out and discussions of Right Bank versus Left, Cabernet versus Merlot and the age old question of likely release prices begin…  For the first time in what seems like eons, Bordeaux has not been on my mind, in fact, mainland Europe as a whole has struggled to register following the news that I would be packing my bags for sunnier climbs this April…  The Western Cape of South Africa would be my home for seven days, with a broad portfolio of growers to visit, dense fruit and ripe tannins almost certainly lay in wait… So together with a satisfying knowledge that no tweed jacketed, red corduroy trouser wearing gentlemen were likely to be joining us, I looked forward to a pleasurable week of tastings, unhurried, unpretentious and full of palate friendly wines….  And what a week it was!

Following a twelve hour flight from Heathrow T5 to Cape Town airport, I was greeted with a bright, sunny and clear view of Table Mountain.  Such an icon around the world, it marked the beginning of a busy tasting week.  After making a quick pit-stop for milk and ostrich steaks we headed into the heart of Swartland for our first appointment.  Paardeberg is the area from which one of Swartland’s most dynamic and in demand growers is to be found; Adi Badenhorst.  With a history taking in stints at Chateau Angelus and Rustenberg Estate amongst others, he is a maverick in this hotbed of Cape innovation.  Walking into his winery reminded me of stepping into one of the small, innovative and youthfully exhuberant Chateauneuf-du-Pape estates such as Domaine Barroche or Domaine Giraud prior to their inevitable superstardom.  Things were happening, quietly, in natural, colourful and ever so bohemian surroundings.  Adi’s wines spoke of passion, lightness of touch and appreciation for his surroundings.  Artisanal and pure, they are some of the most talked about wines coming from The Cape.  With new plantings planned for a recently cleared vineyard plot on the property, Tinta Barocca could soon be added to a portfolio which already boasts plantings of Chenin Blanc, Cabernet and Cinsalt amongst others.  The Cinsault in fact, planted as long ago as 1951.  Old vines indeed!  With a plan to increase his holdings from 27-40 hectares, Adi in many senses harks back to the old days with his retro blends, utilising Lagres and natural yeast fermentation during production.  He uses low impact products during winemaking which bolster his green credentials and is as true to nature as possible.  If all this wasn’t enough he is also extremely charismatic!  The two wines offered by Seckford Agencies and sculpted exclusively for us by Adi are called The Curator.  The white, a Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillion blend offered a round, grassy and almond like richness on the palate with good depth and an attractive floral note.  The red, a Shiraz, Mouvedre, Cinsault and Viognier blend offered a focused, zingy and precise nose with fresh cut loganberry and spice notes.  Both wines were direct and delicious.  Pound for pound they offered so much bang for the buck that Bordeaux should be thoroughly ashamed of itself! 

To start our visit with Adi was as much of a joy as his relaxed yet thorough approach to winemaking.  Though an opportunity to engage with someone of such high regard was rare, I knew our visits would be colourful and varied, starting with our next visits – to Spice Route and Paul Cluver Wines.

Watch this space for more!

The post appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

On the southern tip of the North Island, 65 km east of Wellington, 1.5 hours journey by car through the slow-going, winding roads over the Rimutaka mountain range, sits the remote little village of Martinborough. At first glance the place hardly appears worth the effort of getting there. Named after the Irish immigrant John Martin who purchased the vast surrounding area of Wairarapa as a sheep station, the town emerged in the late 1800s and early 1900s purely as a stop to service the sub-divided sheep farms. There is a rail tunnel connecting the area to civilisation through the mountains built in the 1950s – solely for trains. Apparently the local budget didn’t stretch to a similar road vehicle tunnel so the journey today by car is that much slower. This goes part way to explaining why some 130+ years after the sheep moved-in en mass there are still only around 1300 full time human inhabitants.

Vines were planted for winemaking in the region as far back as the late 1800s, albeit on a very small scale and mainly as a hobbyist pursuit. It wasn’t really until 1979/80 that viticulture was pursued as a commercially viable venture by 4 pioneering wineries, 3 of which are still going strong today: Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyards and Dry River. To look at the town and where most of these early vineyards are located, you might dismiss them as little more than aspirational lifestyle whims. The town and vineyards are literally one and the same and it’s plain to see that the locals didn’t explore too far beyond their own back yards to establish what were to become the prime viticultural locations. They didn’t need to. There must have been some serious scientific basis here at play, either that or they got very, very lucky because as it so happens that their own backyards do in fact yield pretty incredible Pinot Noir.

Martinborough is situated in part on a rectangular alluvial terrace of approximately 1 km x 5 km, carved out and left behind by the changing path of the Ruamahanga River – a massive river that cuts through the Wairarapa region (also encompassing the wine regions of Gladstone and Masterton) and empties into the Cook Straight between the North and South Island. This makes for stony, free-draining sub-soils that are ideal for high quality viticulture. The best vineyards take advantage of this natural feature. Driving through the region, these terraces or escarpments can clearly be seen forming plateaus of varying levels, notably to the south heading down Te Muna Road where the “upper terraces” rise up rather dramatically, almost screaming to be planted to vines. And indeed these higher upper terraces have become home to the more recent Pinot Noir plantings. Steve Smith of Craggy Range related to me how he and Larry McKenna of Escarpment decided almost simultaneously and without consulting one another to first establish vineyards atop those escarpments of relatively infertile, deep alluvial gravels in the Te Muna Valley in the late 1990s. It wasn’t long before others discovered what all the fuss was about with these upper terraces and more plantings followed.

Though generally a damp, cool year, 2011 appeared to prove a very good to excellent vintage in Martinborough. Marlborough and a few other regions battled this year to control higher yields in order to achieve any concentration in the wines. Although Martinborough’s soils and climate naturally limit production somewhat, vigilance (e.g. crop thinning) was required to produce the very best wines. I was generally very impressed with a lot of the 2011s that I tasted.

2012 was a tough year for parts of the North Island of New Zealand. In Hawkes Bay, to the north of Wairarapa and on the eastern coast, it was near enough a total washout. Not to beat about the bush, it was very cool and very rainy in Martinborough right through February. Ata Rangi commented that it was the coolest Martinborough vintage since 1993. Harvest was considerably later than normal in 2012 – up to a month later in some cases. Kai Schubert of Schubert Winery confessed, “We were worried nothing would ripen. But April saved us – we had a beautiful April. Still, we believe 2011 was more a Pinot year.” From what I’ve tasted, I’d say this was a good to very good vintage with some solid well-made wines but generally the Pinots don’t hit the highs of 2011 or indeed this region’s best vintage.

During my visit in February 2013, I took the opportunity to visit and taste with a selection of what I consider the top producers in Martinborough.

Larry McKenna is a man of vision and hard graft, and these attributes show in his very impressive wines. Originally from Australia, he left Roseworthy College in South Australia in 1976 and never looked back. Pinot must have got under his skin when he hit New Zealand, where spent he spent 13 years building the quality and reputation of Martinborough Vineyard’s Pinot before striking out for the then-undeveloped “Upper Terraces” off Te Muna Road in 1999, where he established a vineyard and also developed his own ground-breaking style from unique vineyards on the town’s escarpment. The Kupe Vineyard in particular has incredible promise and potential, densely planted to Able Clone (NZ’s “gum boot” clone, which is thought to have originated from DRC) on the Te Muna site. McKenna also makes some very good single vineyard expressions from vineyards on the terrace in the town, naming the wines after the vineyards: Kiwa, Pahi and Te Rehua.

2011 Escarpment Chardonnay                                     91+

2011 Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir                                92+

2011 Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir                               93+

2011 Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir                                90+

2010 Escarpment Riesling                                           89

2011 Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir                        92+

The post Martinborough – Look No Further Than Your Back Yard appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

The post Paul Cluver Number 4 in S.A. Top 20 Wineries appeared first on Seckford Agencies.

The post Prince of Pinot Noir appeared first on Seckford Agencies.