Douglas Blyde of Drinks Business (March 2025) speaks with Sam Harrop MW about his work with family-run Bird In Hand winery in Australia.
The winery’s name references a 19th-century gold mine. How does that heritage influence its brand identity?
Bird in Hand, Nest Egg, and Two in the Bush were once gold mines beneath the Woodside estate. Founders, Andrew and Susie Nugent named their wine ranges in homage. That history underpins a brand which respects its past while looking forward, with sustainability at its core – from preserving some of Australia’s oldest soils to maintaining the Hills’ clean, green reputation.
The Nugent family runs Bird in Hand from the estate. How does this hands-on approach impact its culture?
The Nugents are embedded in every layer. Andrew, executive director, remains deeply involved in winemaking, sales and strategy – an unusually active founder role. Susie lends her design acumen to the estate and the soon-to-open Hobart tasting room. Their children are in training to take on pivotal roles too. Bird in Hand remains a true family outfit, fuelled by passion, craft and continuity.
With cooling influences from the Gulf of St. Vincent and the Mount Lofty Ranges, how do these conditions define the wines?
Perched up to 600m in the Mount Lofty Ranges, Bird in Hand’s vines benefit from warm days, cool nights and maritime breezes which temper the summer heat. Slower ripening encourages natural acidity and moderate alcohol, while low pH adds poise. It’s a set-up which suits today’s palate – fresh, precise, and conducive to low-intervention winemaking.
Bird in Hand champions sustainability and minimal intervention – how do you balance these values with the realities of commercial-scale production?
Bird in Hand walks a considered line. Organic methods (without certification) offer flexibility, while low-intervention winemaking upholds both quality and ecological standards. The aim is simple: minimal input, maximum site expression – and the scale to make it matter.
The winery has expanded into Tasmania. What’s the strategy behind this move?
Tasmania is among the most thrilling wine regions today – its cool climate and expressive soils are ideal for both sparkling and still styles. Bird in Hand’s 2024 West Tamar Pinot Noir and Riesling offer an elegance which leans more European than Australian. The goal? Expand the still and sparkling range, access new markets, and show a more progressive edge to sommeliers and drinkers alike.
Your background includes co-founding Peninsula Vinicultores in Spain. How has that shaped your work at Bird in Hand?
Peninsula instilled values I carry through – authenticity, sustainability, and the primacy of site. Both ventures reject fads in favour of identity. Bird in Hand is already strong in this regard, and with the pace of change – especially in Tasmania – it’s an exciting time to push that even further.
Bird in Hand Foundation supports young creatives. Why invest in the arts, and which projects have been most impactful?
The Nugents see wine as part of a wider creative culture. Their private art collection reflects that, and the foundation supports young and First Nations artists. It was one of the first Australian wineries to launch a Reconciliation Action Plan. Highlights include backing the APY Lands art collective, the Donor’s Circle, and the ambitious Art of Burning Man at Chatsworth House.
FROM THE CELLAR: A WORD FROM OUR WINEMAKER, CHRIS ALBRECHT
As vintners, we are constantly and acutely aware of prevailing weather patterns during harvest – a great deal of what ends up in your bottle of wine is determined by it. I am delighted to share that the 2025 harvest unfolded under near-perfect conditions: dry, moderate cool days with generous sunshine. Although somewhat congested at times, vineyards were harvested timeously and at optimal ripeness levels. Fruit quality was immaculate throughout and not once was the vineyard team’s progress interrupted by heavy showers. Yields were healthy, yet balanced, adding to an already remarkable harvest. This was the kind of harvest we dream about!
The 2025 harvest at Paul Clüver Family Wines in Elgin commenced slightly later than usual, following a cool, temperate growing season that has yielded exceptional fruit. This year’s Chardonnay displays vibrant acidity and an expressive spectrum of varietal flavours, while the Pinot Noir shows remarkable concentration, silky tannins, and a rich, robust colour. As the signature Burgundian varieties of the cool-climate Elgin Valley, these wines reflect the terroir and pioneering spirit that has shaped viticulture in the region for decades.
Harvest began in mid-February with Chardonnay, which continued through mid-March. Pinot Noir followed shortly after and concluded around the same time.
Andries Burger, Cellarmaster at Paul Clüver Family Wines, attributes the outstanding quality of the fruit and the exceptional fermenting wines in the cellar to the ideal weather patterns experienced throughout the year.
“Following last year’s harvest, conditions turned cool to cold, with timely rainfall rejuvenating the vineyards,” he explains. “A wet and chilly winter allowed the vines an extended period of deep dormancy. Our commitment to regenerative farming benefited greatly from the wet winter, which supported the growth of extensive cover crops—essential for soil health, nutrient cycling, weed suppression, nitrogen fixation, and carbon sequestration.”
Spring brought an uneven bud-break in some Chardonnay blocks, leading to instances of millerandage at harvest. However, slow and consistent ripening contributed to impressive flavour development and depth. The cooler temperatures persisted through spring and summer, enhancing the natural acidity in both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—one of the hallmarks of this year’s vintage.
“Elgin experienced an exceptionally cool January, which played a pivotal role in shaping this vintage,” says Burger. “We had a reduction of more than 50% in temperature hours above 28°C, significantly reducing heat stress on the vines and allowing for slow, even ripening.”
As a result, the grapes arrived at the cellar in pristine condition, with no disease pressure and perfectly balanced ripeness. As per Paul Clüver Family Wines’ meticulous harvest protocol, the fruit was placed in cold storage post-harvest to ensure optimal freshness before sorting and destemming commenced.
All wines undergo spontaneous fermentation, and this year’s vintage is already showing remarkable character. “Alongside firm acidity, we are seeing moderate alcohol levels across the board,” says Burger. “Many wines are still undergoing fermentation in their assigned vessels—whether small oak barrels, foudrés, stainless steel, or concrete eggs.”
The completed Chardonnays are refined, offering a luxurious mouthfeel and layered citrus complexity. Pinot Noir, benefiting from its extended cool ripening period, exhibits profound flavour development, commanding palate weight, exquisite garnet hues, and seamless, silky tannins.
“This is a truly exceptional year for our Burgundian varieties,” Burger concludes. “In the cellar, there is palpable excitement about the journey ahead for these wines, as they evolve and come into their own.”
Kanonkop Estate has once again been named one of the 50 Most Admired Wine Brands in the World in the annual poll done by leading wine publication Drinks International which every year selects its 50 top brands throughout the winemaking diaspora. Kanonkop took 24th spot on this year’s illustrious top 50 list, and was also named as best brand in all of Africa and the Middle East.
This year sees the 15th edition of the international wine industry’s most authoritative ranking as voted on by Drinks International’s Academy extensive panel of 100 independent experts from around the world including sommeliers, buyers, wholesalers, Masters of Wine and wine writers. This is the fifth time Kanonkop has appeared on this coveted list.
Johann Krige, co-owner of Kanonkop, says this recognition is both an honour and a privilege. “The honour is in being recognised for our wine quality and the status of the Kanonkop brand by a panel of experts who had to make a selection from the best wineries spread throughout the great wine countries such as France, Italy, Spain, America and Australia,” he says.
“The privilege is seeing your own brand on the Top 50 list alongside international icons such as Chateau Margaux and Domaine de la Romanée Conti from France, the Spain legends of Vega Sicilia and Torres and Penfold’s from Australia.
This Top 50 recognition comes two years after Kanonkop celebrated its 50th anniversary as a wine brand, its first bottlings – Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage – being from the 1973 vintage. In its half-century as arguably South Africa’s leading wine brand, Kanonkop has received various international accolades, including four times winning the trophy for Best Winemaker in the World at the International Wine and Spirits Competition.
Krige says that focus and a realisation of the importance of sticking to basic viticulture and winemaking principles have been the keys to Kanonkop’s success. “Our Simonsberg terroir provides the canvas and lies at the heart of everything we do,” he says. “An exclusive focus on red varieties that have proven themselves as being best-suited to our terroir, together with precision viticulture, allows us to make the best use of the site we have been given. And in the cellar Kanonkop remains committed to traditional winemaking methods of fermenting grapes in open-top concrete tanks, with manual punch-downs. No expense is spared in ensuring the wines are matured in the finest wood, and despite our track-record of successes, every day is spent thinking about how Kanonkop can still improve on quality.”
Krige says Kanonkop has never chased recognition, awards or spots on the lists of top global wineries. “These have come our way, I believe, because throughout our history we have never waivered from this commitment to excellence, as well as remaining true to the heritage and values of Kanonkop’s wine ethos.”
Krige emphasises the fact that to be recognised as a Top 50 Most Admired Brand a winery’s relationships with its global distributors, agents and customers is key. “Kanonkop exports its wines to over 70 countries around the world, and the recognition we have been fortunate to receive must also be attributed to the quality of the business and personal relationships we have built-up with our international client base,” says Krige. “It is about telling the story behind your wine, allowing your customers an inside glimpse into the terroir of your soul and proudly sharing your very being as a wine brand with them. This authenticity behind our brand has played as much a success in the Kanonkop story as the very unique sense of place our wines offer,”
Vergelegen bolsters brand refresh with new distribution
ByJo Gilbert, HARPERS
Published: 04 February, 2025
Coinciding with a major rebranding programme, Vergelegen wine estate is pursuing a double-pronged approach for its UK distribution which will now be fulfilled by two separate partners.
Effective from 3 March, the newly refreshed wine labels from the South African brand’s Vergelegen’s Heritage, Reserve and Estate ranges will join the Seckford Agencies as its off-trade distributor in the UK.
From the same date, family-managed wine agency, Ellis Wines, will take on distribution of Vergelegen’s new wine labels in the UK on-trade.
The brand was previously represented in the UK by Fells.
Winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain commented: “As we introduce our beautiful new wine labels to the UK, it’s timely to be partnering with Seckford and Ellis to help us to share our first design revision in two decades with wine drinkers in this market. We are delighted to embrace these new labels at the start of what we plan to be an exciting year for Vergelegen.”
Vergelegen’s global brand refresh is the result of a three-year project involving ‘reflection and collaboration’, the brand said.
The Heritage Range plays the ‘storyteller’ role, highlighting Vergelegen’s history. Each wine – including Florence Rosé, Wild Winds Sauvignon Blanc and Mill Race Red Blend (the latter returning after a 10-year hiatus) – refers to a moment or key date in the estate’s timeline.
The Reserve Range meanwhile features terroir-inspired drawings from artist Linda Smal, illustrating the surrounding Helderberg mountain amphitheatre.
Lastly, the Estate White and Red wines are named in tribute to Vergelegen’s commitment to quality. The new labels take inspiration from the historical homestead and gardens surrounding the estate.
The Heritage and Reserve Range labels are printed on 100% recycled paper and packaged in 100% recyclable materials, while retaining the brand’s signature octagon label shape.
Vergelegen’s icon wine, V, has undergone a packaging refresh that will be available from May 2025.
and an in-depth article from SA Farmers Weekly….
Vergelegen has been rejuvenated to pursue its destiny. Wayne Coetzer, managing director of the wine estate, spoke to Brian Berkman about significant changes being made to its farming and hospitality aspects.
Vergelegen wine estate, near the top of Lourensford Road in Somerset West, Western Cape, is bordered by the Lourensford, Erinvale and Morgenster estates and has been an important agricultural centre for more than 320 years.
In the past five years, important changes to the farming and hospitality aspects of Vergelegen have seen the business improve its product range and customer-facing service offering significantly.
Vergelegen’s wine range, its primary agricultural output, has been overhauled for the first time in several decades. Reducing the number of wines from 17 to 10 has been a three-year process, and their new labels better reflect Vergelegen’s natural heritage and plans for the future.
Wayne Coetzer is Vergelegen’s managing director and a renowned captain in hospitality circles. He previously helmed The Oyster Box Hotel in KwaZulu-Natal’s Umhlanga Rocks and oversaw its glamorous, high-end refurbishment.
“Our intention is to optimally portray Vergelegen, appeal to new and established wine lovers, and ensure success in an already highly competitive industry. The design update reflects the many attributes that contribute to Vergelegen’s legendary status and underpins management’s commitment to conserving this special estate for future generations,” he says.
Vergelegen Managing Director Wayne Coetzer (left) and Vergelegen winemaker Luke O‘Cuinneagain toast the success of their new wine range.
“As the elusive horizon of perfection is always the enduring common goal of Vergelegen, she must, as the organic living, breathing entity that she is, occasionally reawaken and grasp moments that will inspire and motivate, yet at the same time never lose sight of her heritage, nor her commitment to excellence and unwavering devotion to achieving the highest standards possible.
“Like a stately home or classic car, the estate requires occasional tender loving care. Vergelegen is wriggling out of its old carapace and emerging rejuvenated and invigorated to pursue its destiny. This represents a rebirth,” explains Coetzer.
Two thousand people were polled to better understand the market’s associations with Vergelegen and to grow the existing positive associations around the estate’s heritage. “In my opinion, we have failed over the years to tell our beautiful stories with our wines and their labels. We are far more than a wine farm; this is a very special place with wonderful people and remarkable stories to be told.
“On the commercial side, the reason we have had to rebrand is to increase sales through a fresh new look that creates visibility. We have listened to our customers, the likes of supermarket chains as well as small, independent operators, and our distributors around the world who have asked us for better labels. Hopefully, this will lead to a rebirth and growth through new listings,” says Coetzer.
Updated wine range
“In the Heritage wine range we have Florence Rosé and Wild Winds Sauvignon Blanc, and after a 10-year hiatus from the market, the Mill Race Red Blend is back. These labels are the storytellers of the wine portfolio and represent significant places on the estate.”
Heritage prices range from R150 to R180 per bottle, says Coetzer. He adds that the Reserve range, which includes MCC, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, range in price from R330 to R400, while the Estate White and Estate Red, formerly named GVB, are priced at R375 and R550 per bottle, respectively.
The labels for the Estate range link to the estate’s gates, the 320-year-old camphor trees, and the historic manor house.
The Icon range is the estate’s top-end offering, and V is only available by allocation and then only in years when winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain determines its exceptional quality. At R2 000 per bottle, this is an investment wine. The first V vintage in the new packaging is 2019, and it will be released on 1 April each year, beginning in 2025.
Coetzer has been able to leverage the many strong relationships with foreigners and expat South Africans living abroad that he developed while running The Oyster Box Hotel. This has benefitted Vergelegen, and he has worked with partners to create the V wine club in the US to directly export premium wines to special interest groups, linking with distributors globally.
Increasing touchpoints
Coetzer has also worked to transform Vergelegen’s hospitality culture, moving from a rigid corporate approach to one that is willing to provide a wider range of services to customers. He expanded the retail offering and on-farm activities so people who aren’t wine drinkers still have plenty to see, do and buy.
“Service is what you do, but hospitality is how you make people feel when you do it,” says Coetzer.
Now, in addition to the updated range of wines, products inspired by the famous rose gardens on the estate are available in an elegantly packaged range of bathroom amenities and scented soya candles to purchase online and at the estate, along with estate honey.
A new standalone gift shop, currently under development, will be an additional retail outlet for the estate’s high-end products.
“We have already increased the number of annual visitors to Vergelegen from 90 000 to well over 150 000, so the improvements are working,” he says.
“We strive to offer an authentic experience in everything that we do on the estate. Previously, wines were made in the French style, whereas now we are making wines that best reflect our terroir, and we are receiving the accolades and high scores that confirm this.
“The RMB Starlight Classics music concerts have, since inception, been hosted at Vergelegen and we’re about to introduce an MCC wine, Stellar, linked to this,” he says.
New eventing space
In Vergelegen’s long and storied history, owners have welcomed the most notable personalities of the day and, with the highly anticipated launch of the new all-glass eventing space adjacent to where Café Fleur restaurant was previously, high-end events for up to 300 people can soon take place.
“These events will not impact other visitors to the estate, as parking and access will be from a separate entrance. There are many marquee-type event spaces, but ours will be quite different.
“Our picnics, for which the estate is rightly famous, have been elevated in the food offering, and we have replaced the picnic chairs with more elegant and comfortable ones. Stables and The Rose Terrace Tea Room are the main areas where visitors can enjoy our cuisine.
“Currently, there is a pop-up Cabernet & Carne restaurant that has received a lot of support,” says Coetzer.
Game drives
Eben Olderwagen is Vergelegen’s environmental project manager, and he took Farmer’s Weekly in one of the two game-drive vehicles around the estate and into the proclaimed nature reserve.
“The seat belts are an Anglo American safety standard,” he says, adding that vehicles that transport farmworkers all have seat belts. [Anglo American purchased Vergelegen in 1987.]
The Vergelegen winery, located at the top of the hill and 11m underground, is now off-grid with 500 solar panels covering 1 400m². The winery has also installed three inverters and a 1MW battery.
“Sustainability and winemaking go hand in hand,” says Olderwagen. He adds that a number of environmental measures are under way. The clearing of alien trees was a primary focus and now the regrowth of indigenous vegetation and the introduction of wildlife that previously roamed the area are in progress.
Introducing Rau Quagga
Game on Vergelegen includes eland, bontebok, black wildebeest, red hartebeest and other species. As a result of selective breeding the southern plains zebra, in a project to replicate the extinct quagga, the number of Rau quagga on Vergelegen is also growing.
Nguni cattle were introduced in 2001, and the herd of about 400 includes six stud bulls.
Nguni cattle were introduced to Vergelegen in 2001, and the herd of about 400 includes six stud bulls.
About 120 of the 180 cows were with calves during Farmer’s Weekly’s visit in September. Another of Coetzer’s innovations is to move the visually pleasing Ngunis to pastures that are in proximity of the wine-tasting centre so that visitors can admire them.
Combatting leafroll virus
Olderwagen says the farm has had great success in combatting leafroll virus (GLRaV-3), which is spread by the mealybug. Prof Gerhard Pietersen, research director at Patho Solutions, has worked closely with Vergelegen viticulturist Rudolf Kriel. The programme includes releasing predatory wasps by drone, followed by ladybirds, and has proved incredibly effective.
According to Olderwagen, Pietersen shared Vergelegen’s successful strategies with other industry players at a field day at Vergelegen earlier this year. Pietersen said that only 3% of other wine producers apply their control programmes as effectively as Vergelegen does.
While their work together with Stellenbosch University to combat polyphagous shot hole borer beetle provided useful scientific insights, to date, it hasn’t been as successful as hoped, and new tree plantings attempt to mitigate this. [The little beetle tunnels into the trunks, stems and branches of trees and plants, eventually killing them.]
Olderwagen says the core of their environmental practices was the alien vegetation clearing project and the collaboration with CapeNature, resulting in 1 900ha of the estate now enjoying the same conservation status as Kruger National Park.
Vergelegen’s alien-clearing project is the largest privately funded such project in South Africa. The estate now protects 15ha of critically endangered Lourensford alluvium fynbos and 105ha of critically endangered Swartland shale Renosterveld.
Giving nature a chance to recover
Since the year 2000, bird numbers have been counted each month and have increased from fewer than 50 species to 146 recorded to date.
“This is what happens when you give nature a chance to recover,” says Olderwagen, in direct reference to the alien clearing, which has also had positive effects on water availability and in reducing run-off.
The populations of wee waxbill and African olive pigeon have grown, and Vergelegen is one of the few places where one can see large flocks of these species.
Given Coetzer’s future plans, Vergelegen’s previous caretakers, all the way from Willem Adriaan van der Stel to the Theunissen, Phillips and Barlow families, would have been pleased that the estate’s longevity will be guaranteed for future generations.
“Beautiful labels, delicious wine, warm hospitality, a commercial mindset, and a team with the same vision should revive the brand,” says Coetzer.
and below are a few of his high scoring wines from the Seckford portfolio that are currently available:
2021 Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon Steytler Vision92 points The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Steytler Vision has a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, with melted tar and a touch of wild mint coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly viscous texture, counterbalanced by a keen line of acidity. Lightly peppered, harmonious and quite fresh on the finish, this shows impressive delineation. It will mature beautifully in bottle. Drinking Window: 2027 – 2045
2021 Kanonkop Pinotage Black Label 92 points The 2021 Pinotage Black Label has a concentrated bouquet, if perhaps not quite as much as the previous vintage, with a light reduction at play. Scents of potpourri and camphor interlace the black plummy fruit. The palate is ripe and lush on the entry, and the 100% new oak is, as usual, very well integrated. Allspice, a touch of black pepper and clove develop toward the long finish. Of course, it will require several years in bottle, but it remains one of the Cape’s finest Pinotages. Drinking Window: 2029 – 2044
2021 Kanonkop Pinotage Estate 91 points The 2021 Pinotage Estate has a very slight reduction on the nose that accents mentholated black cherries—well defined and exuberant. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening and lovely structure. White pepper and a touch of clove meet with just the right amount of fruit sweetness on the finish, closing with a suggestion of graphite. Drinking Window: 2024 – 2036
2014 Kanonkop Pinotage Estate 90 points I tasted the 2014 Pinotage Estate because Kanonkop has an active program of releasing ten-year-old vintage to restaurants. It actually has quite a youthful bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit, camphor, a touch of crushed violets and then a smudge of marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite fleshy and erring toward a medicinal style of Pinotage. A touch of white pepper builds on the finish. This is drinking beautifully now. Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
2023 Rustenberg Chardonnay Five Soldiers 92 points The 2023 Chardonnay Five Soldiers comes from two clones within a single vineyard at roughly 400 meters above sea level on a wind-exposed site. It was whole-bunch-pressed, barrel-fermented and aged for 15 months in 65-70% new French oak (the staves here are bent by water rather than over fire, thus imparting less wood tannin.) It has a cool, quite aloof bouquet at first, demanding coaxing. Citrus peel, orchard fruit and light orange blossom scents emerge with time. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity and fine concentration, not amazingly complex per se, yet it has a delightful finish of Clementine and peach. You could drink this now, but it will keep for a decade. Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
2022 DeMorgenzon Chenin Blanc Reserve 93 points The 2022 Chenin Blanc Reserve comes mainly from the estate’s heritage blocks, now partly aged in amphora. It has just a touch of reduction at the moment and is a little waxy in style. The palate boasts a slightly honeyed texture and fine depth, revealing touches of honeycomb and spice on the complex finish that lingers in the mouth. This is an excellent Chenin Blanc. Drinking Window: 2025 – 2038
2020 DeMorgenzon Chardonnay Reserve 91 points The 2020 Chardonnay Reserve comes from a year when the vineyard team could spray the vineyard less frequently than usual. Matured in 30% new French oak with 30% malo, this has a lively bouquet with touches of dried honey, white flowers and subtle flinty scents. The palate is well balanced with a slightly tangy entry. It reveals notes of Clementine and grapefruit that dovetail into a slightly leesy, ginger-tinged finish that just needs to forage a tad more mineralité. Otherwise, this is a solid, texturally satisfying Chardonnay Drinking Window: 2025 – 2032
Kanonkop, “standing shoulder to shoulder with the worlds top brands”, not only features as No. 12 in the Drinks International ‘most admired wine brands 2024’, but is this years fastest climbing wine brand, climbing a huge 31 places, as well as being rated the most admired brand in South Africa & the Middle East.
Greystone Winery, a trailblazer in organic wine production, celebrates a significant milestone in its quest to redefine sustainability. Following three years of pioneering work, Greystone is proud to announce the expansion of its innovative ‘High Wire’ trellising system, to over 25% of its vineyard. The High Wire project represents Greystone’s commitment to innovation and organic regenerative farming. Through meticulous testing and refinement, the winery aims to reshape traditional New Zealand viticulture practices.
Mike Saunders, Viticulturist at Greystone Winery, reflects on the journey: “Our decision to trial the High Wire system and integrate year-round sheep grazing stemmed from several key objectives. We aimed to reduce our environmental impact by minimizing tractor usage and diesel consumption, thereby lowering our carbon footprint. Additionally, we sought to improve soil health, optimize viticultural outcomes, and enhance the resilience of our business.”
The success of the trial period has empowered Greystone to scale up this ground-breaking approach, as Saunders explains: “The integration of sheep grazing into our vineyard, along with the promotion of biodiversity, has enriched our vines in profound ways. Grazing behaviours contribute to efficient nutrient cycling, nurturing strong, resilient vines and root systems.”
Dom Maxwell, Greystone’s Winemaker, highlights the impact on wine quality: “As our vines mature and coupled with this holistic approach, we’re witnessing wines that are more expressive, complex, and balanced.” Nick Gill, Greystone’s General Manager, emphasizes the winery’s commitment to continuous innovation: “Expanding the High Wire system underscores our dedication to regenerative organic farming and sustainable vineyard management. Our approach extends beyond viticulture; we proudly feature vineyard-raised lambs on our restaurant menu, contributing to a more eco-conscious future and additional revenue streams.”
Stephen McGowan, Greystone Sales, and Marketing Manager underscores the importance of transparency: “As consumer preferences evolve, Greystone aims to lead the way in environmental stewardship. Our dedication to regenerative organic farming resonates with consumers seeking healthier and sustainable choices.”
Over the past three years, Greystone has achieved remarkable milestones:
• 50% reduction in carbon emissions through minimized tractor usage and natural weed control by sheep.
• Enhanced soil health and structure through minimal tillage farming.
• Increased biodiversity and natural pest control with multi-species pastures.
• Improved grape quality and complexity due to enhanced vine health and soil nutrient richness.
The integration of sheep grazing into the vineyard has played a pivotal role in reducing carbon emissions and promoting soil health. This innovative approach aligns with Greystone’s commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices.
SO’s Drinks Editor James Viner picks his top ten of finest festive tipples to get the party started…
and at No 2.
2022 Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir, Australia
Nab this smart, appetising, generously discounted, red-fruited, pale, blush pink South Australian aperitif-style sparkling hit. It gives you a lot of bang for your buck and is good value even at the full price. A perfect celebratory foil for smoked salmon and turkey sandwiches.
Suzy Atkin writes to Delicious magazine:
Be adventurous
Bird in Hand Sparkling 2022, South Australia 12.5%
This pale pink bubbly is made in the same method as champagne. Fresh strawberries and rich layers of cream jump from the glass with plenty of bubbles.
Jancis Robinson writes in her weekly Purple Pages:
Bird in Hand, Sparkling 2023 Australia
A simple, pretty, off-dry Pinot-based fizz at a good price.
Bird’s the word: the Aussie wine is a hit with the fashion crowd (Bird In Hand)
A tumbledown farmhouse might seem an unlikely birthplace for a wine known now for its place among artists and A-listers, but that’s how it started for Bird In Hand, when in 1997 founders Andrew and Susie Nugent bought a crumbling building in the Adelaide Hills of southern Australia. A dairy farm with salt rot already setting in, it was old but it was right: the north-facing hills rich with nutrients, the water good.
The Nugents still live there, only now there are five of them: Lalla, Edward and Oscar with their parents. With the cattle gone, the land was planted with pinot noir, shiraz, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay; the first vintage came in 2001. Life was good. And that, the Nugents explain, is the basic philosophy behind the brand: wine makes life a little better, and life makes wine a little better. Family life, yes, but life when it’s full with philosophy, culture, creativity, art. Art especially.
(Dave Benett/Getty Images)
“We have a love of art in its fullest sense,” Andrew Nugent says. “Wine, food, music, design. Nothing surpasses the… the fusion and creative energy that results from multiple disciplines coming together, combining in unison.”Which is how, in a roundabout way, Bird In Hand has ended up being a hit with of the likes of Liv Tyler (“I just adore [it]. My favourite is the syrah — it’s become an absolute staple at my table”) and Brooke Shields (“Their kindness really shines through in their amazing vineyard — a favourite is the Nest Egg chardonnay.”). Because the Nugents love their wine, but are driven by something else, too. What? “The constant search for creative inspiration,” says Andrew. “And the delight in sharing elevated moments.”This desire to share is what’s driven the family to build what they dub “creative partnerships” with the likes of the National Portrait Gallery, Clapham’s Studio Voltaire and even the Standard’s own Theatre Awards. There are more at home — the National Gallery of Australia being perhaps the biggest, though the brand has also long worked with indigenous Australian art collaborative the APY Collective (supporting the indigenous population is a keystone for the brand: “To be able to celebrate and learn from more than 65,000 years of Australian culture… is hard to surpass.”).
(Helen Abraham Photography)
But why should cultural relationships matter to a wine brand? “They matter if there’s love and creativity at their core,” Andrew explains. “Then they result in the shared moments of fun, joy and artistic expression. They become valuable to us personally.” That personal value is clear, as it’s driven the Nugents to move their wine into music, theatre, and performance. “Liam Gallagher created a special moment,” Andrew says, perhaps knowingly, but at exclusive suppers and awards and on red carpets, other friends have been made — think Naomi Watts, David and Victoria Beckham, Cindy Crawford, Alexa Chung. Clearly, the combination of a shared philosophy and first-rate wine is a potent one. These connections help keep the brand’s profile high, which in turn helps the Bird in Hand foundation, 10 next year. It’s one foundation that supports 11 others — some beneficiaries are culturally-tuned, but others help seriously ill children, the blind, refugees, another sponsors school scholarships. The next time there’s a red carpet, a gallery launch, or a high-profile concert, there may also be Bird in Hand. It’s all a long way from that tumbledown farmhouse.
Rust en Vrede, situated within a historic Cape Dutch cellar on a wine estate in the foothills of the Helderberg, offers a quintessential winelands dining experience. The restaurant, surrounded by oak trees and vineyards, has been serving guests since 2007 under the leadership of head chef Fabio Daniel. Chef Fabio’s contemporary French cuisine, influenced by his Brazilian and Italian heritage, is crafted from fresh seasonal products with a focus on the age and quality of the beef and venison.
Rust en Vrede is not only known for its exceptional food and wine but also for its rich history in winemaking, dating back over 300 years at its Stellenbosch estate. The estate is particularly noted for its robust red wines. Visitors consistently praise the outstanding quality of both food and service, with wine tastings being a highlight of the experience.
The estate’s location adds to its charm, making it a recommended destination. While dining options are focused on salmon or steak, the dishes, especially the fillet, receive high acclaim for their quality. The wine pairings are considered good value, contributing to a fine dining experience that makes Rust en Vrede a top choice for those seeking a delightful afternoon in the winelands with family and friends. Additionally, guests are encouraged to try the estate’s brandy, rounding off what is invariably described as an amazing visit.
Australia Tasting Report – Wine Spectator December 2023
Australia’s signature labels continue to play a key role in maintaining the country’s reputation for quality. Bottlings from Mollydooker consistently top the leader board—and for good reason. These estates all make compelling wines, and their scores perennially reflect that. Whether single-vineyard expressions or regional blends, the wines from these leading producers represent the best of what Australia has to offer.
Gigglepot 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 pts
A ripe, generous expression of Cabernet, with blackberry cobbler, vanilla cream, fresh violet and blueberry preserves on a lush, creamy frame, plus accents of mocha. Reveals spice, cedar and additional chocolaty notes on the finish. Drink now.
Maitre’ D 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 pts
A fragrant red, featuring notes of tobacco, oud, palo santo and violet, while hints of eucalyptus and iodine complement the blackberry and blueberry syrup flavors and dense, toothsome tannins.
Drink now through 2036
Velvet Glove 2020 Shiraz 95 pts
Rich and opulent, with notes of chocolate cake, framboise, salted toffee and espresso, along with more savoury details of toasted cumin, rosemary and cedar. A hint of fresh spearmint and shavings of bittersweet chocolate linger on the long, velvety finish. Drink now through 2034.
Carnival of Love 2021 Shiraz 93 pts
This stylish and distinctive red is decidedly ripe, with notes of cherry and berry preserves at the core, accented by spearmint, menthol, spicy clove and cardamom hints that add complexity and aromatics. A chocolaty note gains momentum, as does a touch of sandalwood on the long, expressive finish. Drink now.
Blue Eyed Boy 2021 Shiraz 92 pts
Dense and generous, with ripe black cherry, raspberry and blueberry preserves, accents of espresso and bittersweet chocolate, plus hints of palo santo and spices on the lush, juicy finish. Drink now through 2032.
Enchanted Path 2021 Shiraz, Cabernet 92 pts
Dense and firm, with notes of graphite, black liquorice and fresh-cracked black pepper, along with cedar, tobacco and spices. Delivers ripe, concentrated dried blueberry, plum and cassis flavours, showing plenty of restraint on the black tea–laced finish. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2038.
Two Left Feet 2021 Shiraz, Cabernet, Merlot 92 pts
Appealing for its generosity and precision, with berry and cherry flavours that have a ripe, candied edge, showing hints of peppermint, mocha and Saigon cinnamon that add aromatics and complexity. The tannins are dense but polished, leaving a velvety impression. Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now.
Boxer 2021 Shiraz 91 pts
Plush and polished, with ripe notes of maraschino cherry, milk chocolate and raspberry pre serves. Details of cinnamon, spicy tobacco and cumin add aromatic interest, with a lingering thread of toasted herbs. Drink now through 2029.
Despite the trials the country has faced, quality Australian wines remain widely available stateside. The country’s producers offer both benchmark styles and innovative expressions, all while maintaining a commitment to sustainable practices. The hope is that wine fans around the world are paying attention, because Australian wines are more than living up to their promise.
Decanter Magazine publishes an excellent article on Cap Classique, which in recent years has been one of South Africa’s fastest-growing wine categories
Traditional-method sparkling wine from South Africa, known as Cap Classique, has transformed itself. Both established and emerging producers now represent an effervescent, dynamic and ambitious sparkling wine scene that pulls every register in the vineyard and cellar to deliver quality. At long last, the best of these wines (including Sparkling Chenin Blanc from DeMorgenzon) are making it to our shores ready to make you sit up and take notice. Read this excellent article from Decanter Magazine
Best Value White of the Year – 2021 Paul Cluver Village Chardonnay, Elgin “The kind of wine whose quality makes you do a double take when you look at the price [.. ] this is a Chardonnay that could trick experienced professionals in a blind tasting. Tank, foudre and stainless steel fermented, it’s a mini Puligny-Montrachet with yeasty complexity and a citrus and wet stone core”.
Co-operative / Producers’ Cellar of the Year 2022 Darling Cellars
Best Cellar Door Experience 2021 (includes finalist) Waterford Estate, Stellenbosch
Wines of the Year
2019 Kanonkop Paul Sauer, Stellenbosch – 98 pts
2018 Glenelly Lady May, Stellenbosch – 97 pts
2017 Waterford Estate The Jem, Stellenbosch – 97 pts
2021 Paul Cluver Seven Flags Chardonnay, Elgin – 96 pts
2020 Kanonkop Black Label Pinotage, Stellenbosch – 96 pts
2020 DeMorgenzon Syrah Reserve, Stellenbosch – 96 pts
2021 Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest Riesling, Elgin – 96 pts
2021 Catherine Marshall Chenin Blanc Fermented In Clay, Western Cape – 95 pts
2021 Kaapzicht The 1947 Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch – 95 pts
2018 Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch – 95 pts
2019 Rustenberg Peter Barlow, Stellenbosch- 95 pts
2020 Bouchard Finlayson Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley – 95 pts
2021 Catherine Marshall Finite Elements Pinot Noir, Cape South Coast – 95 pts
2018 Paul Cluver Seven Flags Pinot Noir, Elgin – 95 pts
The best of the rest…..
Waterford Antigo Stellenbosch 2019 Red 91
Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2018 Red 94
Waterford Estate Kevin Arnold Shiraz Stellenbosch 2018 Red 93
Waterford Estate Single Vineyard Chardonnay Stellenbosch 2019 White 92
Waterford Estate Single Vineyard Grenache Noir Stellenbosch 2020 Red 93
Waterford Estate Single Vineyard Grenache Noir Stellenbosch 2019 Red 92
Steenberg The Black Swan Sauvignon Blanc Constantia 2021 White 92
Rustenberg Chardonnay Stellenbosch 2021 White 90
Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay Stellenbosch 2020 White 93
Rustenberg John X Merriman Stellenbosch 2020 Red 93
Rustenberg Malbec Stellenbosch 2020 Red 90
Rustenberg Old Vine Muscat of Alexandria Calitzdorp 2021 Fortified 91
Rustenberg Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch 2021 White 90
Paul Cluver Estate Chardonnay Elgin 2021 White 93
Paul Cluver Estate Pinot Noir Elgin 2021 Red 93
Paul Cluver Estate Riesling Elgin 2022 White 93
Paul Cluver Estate Riesling Elgin 2021 White 93
Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc Elgin 2022 White 92
Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc Elgin 2021 White 91
Paul Cluver Village Chardonnay Elgin 2021 White 93
Lemberg Spencer Tulbagh 2018 Red 92
Lemberg Hárslevelü Tulbagh 2021 White 93
Lemberg Nelson Tulbagh 2018 Red 91
Kaapzicht Kliprug OVP Chenin Blan Stellenbosch 2021 White 92
Kaapzicht Rooiland Pinotage Stellenbosch 2020 Red 92
Kaapzicht Skraalhans OVP Pinotage Stellenbosch 2021 Red 90
Kaapzicht Steytler Pentagon Stellenbosch 2020 Red 93
Kaapzicht Steytler Pinotage Stellenbosch 2020 Red 92
Kaapzicht Steytler Vision Stellenbosch 2020 Red 93
Kanonkop Kadette Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2020 Red 92
Kanonkop Kadette Cape Blend Stellenbosch 2020 Red 91
Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage Stellenbosch 2020 Red 92
Kanonkop Pinotage Stellenbosch 2020 Red 94
Glenelly Estate Chardonnay Reserve Stellenbosch 2021 White 92
Glenelly Estate Reserve Red Stellenbosch 2017 Red 94
Glenelly The Glass Collection Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch 2020 Red 93
Glenelly The Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2020 Red 93
Glenelly The Glass Collection Chardonnay Stellenbosch 2021 White 90
Glenelly The Glass Collection Merlot Stellenbosch 2020 Red 92
Glenelly The Glass Collection Syrah Stellenbosch 2020 Red 91
DeMorgenzon Chenin Blanc Reserve Stellenbosch 2021 White 94
DeMorgenzon DMZ Chardonnay Stellenbosch 2021 White 91
DeMorgenzon DMZ Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2021 White 90
DeMorgenzon DMZ Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch 2022 White 90
DeMorgenzon DMZ Syrah Stellenbosch 2020 Red 91
DeMorgenzon Maestro Blue Stellenbosch 2019 Red 94
DeMorgenzon Maestro White Stellenbosch 2020 White 93
DeMorgenzon MCC Stellenbosch 2019 Sparkling 91
DeMorgenzon Syrah Reserve Stellenbosch 2020 Red 96
Darling Cellars Old Bush Vines Chenin Blanc Darling 2021 White 91
Darling Cellars Old Bush Vines Cinsault Darling 2020 Red 91
Darling Cellars Old Bush Vines Cinsault Rosé Darling 2021 Rosé 90
Catherine Marshall Pinot Noir on Clay Soils Cape South Coast 2020 Red 94
Catherine Marshall Pinot Noir on Sandstone Elgin 2020 Red 94
Catherine Marshall Riesling Elgin 2021 White 91
Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2020 Red 92
Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2019 Red 93
Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay Elandskloof 2020 White 93
Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale Chardonnay Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2021 White 93
Bouchard Finlayson Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2020 Red 95
2022 Q & A with Alexandra Wardlaw, Winemaker at Kirrihill
WHERE ARE YOU FROM?
From the Champagne region, a small town called Villenauxe-la Grande. I studied winemaking for 4 years in Avize, a beautiful little town in the Cotes des Blancs.
WHEN DID YOU ARRIVE IN AUSTRALIA?
January 2018. I originally planned on staying for just one vintage at Kirrihill, so not much in the suitcase. 4.5 years later, I’m still here!
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE KIRRIHILL?
For its renowned cool climate Riesling as well as its proximity to the Yorke Peninsula and Adelaide. Our beautiful little Clare Valley is the perfect spot to enjoy a vintage coming from overseas and discover all things South Australia.
HOW MANY VINTAGES AT KIRRIHILL?
Vintage 2022 was my 5th with Kirrihill and my 3rd in a winemaking role.
WHAT YOU LOVE ABOUT CLARE?
Firstly, I love Clare because this is where I met my husband Sam, we actually met at Kirrihill! We have a one-year-old son named Oliver. I decided to start a family in Clare because this region represents everything I value, a strong and dynamic local community, innovative and humble winemakers. It’s one big family and it makes up for being away from mine in France.
ALEXANDRA’S ASPIRATIONS
I’m passionate about developing my skills to become a wine show judge. This is the best way to get to know more about all aspects of Australian wine and be involved in the wine community.
Looking ahead – a review of the 2022 vintage at Kirrihill
SEASON
We were blessed with almost perfect ripening conditions in Clare throughout spring and summer. Good rainfall and cool weather allowed our grapes to ripen in a consistent manner leading to stunning levels of acidity and optimum maturity in our Riesling and reds. The moderate temperatures in January and February resulted in a slight delay in picking, but this allowed the fruit to ripen slowly and gently, producing premium fruit for our winemakers to showcase their skill and expertise.
HARVEST
We harvested our Clare Riesling two weeks later than normal, with picking commencing on the 1st of March and by the 15th of March, all the Riesling was in tank and happily fermenting. We are delighted by the depth of colour in our 2022 reds which are now almost through malolactic fermentation. This year we had access to grape varieties including Riesling, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro, Malbec and Grenache, an exciting range for our winemakers and vintage staff.
SOURCE
Over the 2022 vintage, we worked with varieties and techniques new to the Kirrihill stable, a perfect opportunity for our winemakers to use their skill, flair and have some fun. With the addition of small batches, including a parcel of Grenache from Clare, whole bunch fermentation of Grenache from the Barossa and hand selected Shiraz from our iconic Schobers vineyard, we are excited about the wines the 2022 vintage will deliver.
THE TEAM
It’s been a cracker of a vintage for the Kirrihill team and we couldn’t have done it without our brilliant vintage staff that joined us locally and from interstate. Despite challenges presented by covid travel restrictions, we were delighted to also have a strong international contingent joining us from Canada, France, South Africa and China.
THE WINES
Our wines already look amazing, reflecting Clare characteristics. The Riesling is pristine and limey with an appealing acid drive. The Shiraz has depth and texture with lovely red fruits and spices, the Cabernet shows blue fruit characteristics, is well balanced and has a lovely bright fruit spectrum. With the variation in conditions of each vintage, changing flavour profiles present the team with an opportunity to work with beautiful fruit, innovate and to create something special, that we know you will love to drink and share.
For more information about Kirrihill , please visit their website
Two great scores of 92 points from Tim Atkin MW in his 2022 Chilean Report:
2021 Sumpai Sauvignon Blanc
A wine from the Atacama Desert sounds as if it ought to be hot and ripe, but this is no ordinary vineyard, or rather vineyards, since there are two parcels. Salty, tight and refreshing, it’s a Chilean Sancerre with mouth-watering acidity and a briny, nettley finish. Drink 2022-25
2020 Sumpai Syrah
Alejandro Galaz produces this sappy, intense Syrah from vines on Leyda’s second terrace, located on a mix of alluvial and granite soils. Taut and refreshing with very little oak influence and layers of raspberry and black cherry fruit supported by sinewy tannins. Drink 2023-27
Seckford Agencies are delighted to represent both Golden Amrita and JJ Hahn, located in the Barossa Valley, South Australia.
Both wineries are collaborating with familiar friends of Seckford. Kym Milne of Bird in Hand is the consultant winemaker for Golden Amrita and James & Jackie Hahn have teamed up with Rolf Binder to create the JJ Hahn label.
